How to Make a Router Table Fence: A router table is an amazingly versatile machine. You can set it in any place using only the fence without any bearing. This router table is designed to be sturdy, stable, easy to build, and easy to use. This table will withstand several years of rigorous use and provides high-yield features. Any router table can be simple and quite affordable.
It’s easy to adjust the great-featured zero-clearance fence, an offset router mount that allows you to use more of the table to support work. The table insertion can accommodate different bit sizes, top risks for easy access to the router and quick bit changes, and built-in dust collection. In this article, we will learn how to make a router table fence easily.
Table of Contents
1. Tools for making router table fence
Have all your materials ready in time before you start work. This will make it easier for you to do your job.
- Clamps
- Corded drill
- Countersink drill bit
- Drill bit set
- Dust mask
- Extension cord
- Hearing protection
- Jigsaw
- One-handed bar clamps
- Router
- Safety glasses
- Shop vacuum
- Table saw
- Tape measure
Required Materials
- 1-5/8-in. screws
- 2″ washer-head screws
- Contact cement
- Nail-on furniture glides
- Polyurethane finish
- Safety power tool switch
- Wood glue
2. Create a cabinet
Make sure about the height of your table before you start the cabinet. This way, the router table can act as a saw to support its decoration or vice versa.
Cut out all the cabinet parts (part A – G) with hardwood edges (S – W) and cut the band. Before you screw on the middle shelf, measure the height of your router. Make sure the shelf position allows the router motor to be moved from the base. It can also change the height of your drawer parts.
When the adhesive is on edge, use the masking tape to tape it until the adhesive is set. This protects the edges of the MDFT, which is at risk of chipping and denting. It also looks good when the router table is finished.
Assemble the cabinet using all the parted washer-head screws. Washer heads eliminate the need to drill countersink recesses, add some power, and so on.
When the cabinet is complete, hang the door using wrapped hinges. Use the doors available in different styles to fully cover the front side. According to your vacuum hose, nail to the furniture glide, mount the external switch, cut a hole for the power cord, and measure just above the middle shelf.
3. Make a tabletop
First, glue one layer of hardboard with MDF core (D) and 1/4-in hardboard. Cut about 1/2 inch from the final size. Press the parts together using a slab of MDF as a platform, 2×4, and clamp.
After the glue dries, trim the hardboard and cut the hole with the hardboard and MDF. Use the router base as a template to mark the hole and center the tabletop in the cabinet. Then cut a hole in the top of the cabinet at least 1/2 in. more extensive than the tabletop hole. Now add the second layer of hardboard to the tablet.
To complete the tabletop, add hardwood edges. Now you can install the router. Using a hole saw, drill a router-bit hole according to your largest router bit. Now mark the screw holes and drill. So that you can hold the base of your router close to the tabletop. You carefully drill the countersink holes through the laminate to adjust the screw heads. The tabletop is complete, including mounting the router base. Center it in the cabinet and fasten it with screws driven from the inside of the cabinet.
4. How to Make a Router Table Fence
Cut the board in half to make a base and rail on a plank of MDF. The cutouts come together to form an opening for the router bit.
The fence base and rail will be made from a piece of MDF. Now cut the gap at 8-5 / 8 x 32 and drill the 3-in hole in the middle with jigs. Use it to cut slots on the fence rail that allow the fence faces to slide in or out. Now mark the slot position of the fence rail and drill 5 / 16- holes in the holes at both ends of each slot. Then beat directly on your router. Raise it to a height of about 7/8 inches above the tabletop. Now set the fence rail on the router table.
Turn on the router by clamping for temporary travel. Press the stock from right to left until the bit enters the hole at the other end. Turn off the router, and after the bit has stopped completely, you go to the next slot. Join the two fence parts with glue and screws and attach the dust port.
Fence faces make 3/4-in recess and 5/16-in holes to replace the heads of carriage bolts. The holes must be perfectly aligned with the slots of the fence rail. Now bolt on the face and prepare the fence for action.
5. Finishing touches
You can use frame stretchers to remove dust. Make a two-pis cover from MDF or plywood scraps. Turn round baffles to close the corners and fit as many caps as possible around the router base.
Bit storage is a practical addition to the table. Plywood is needed to make a small box for the drawer. Take an extra 4-foot 1-in piece for the drawer fronts. X4-in oak drawer bottles should be 1/4 ″ thin wood. Cut wide enough to fit the cut slots on the side of the box.
Conclusion
A router placed on a table is more convenient than a handheld router. Since pushing wood across the router is easy and fast. Also, a stiff table and fence will give you more control and dependence. You can use this router table for several years. This will provide high-yield features that are easy to make and can be quite affordable.
